Prada Responds to Kolhapuri Controversy, Denies GI Breach Claims

Luxury fashion brand Prada has found itself at the center of a legal dispute regarding the use of traditional Indian designs. The company has denied allegations of infringing on the Geographical Indication (GI) rights associated with Kolhapuri chappals after showcasing sandals inspired by this iconic footwear in its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection in Milan. In response to a legal notice claiming violations worth Rs 500 crore, Prada’s legal team asserted that the sandals were not marketed under the Kolhapuri name or any related GI markings.

Legal Notice Issued by LIDKAR

The legal notice was issued by LIDKAR, a government-backed organization from Karnataka that co-holds the GI tag for Kolhapuri chappals. The notice accused Prada of serious violations, stating that the brand was “selling, advertising, marketing GI-registered goods—traditional and handmade leather sandals—without proper authorization.” This claim highlights the importance of protecting traditional craftsmanship and the rights of artisans from Karnataka and Maharashtra, who are the rightful owners of the GI tag for Kolhapuri chappals. The notice emphasized that such actions could lead to both civil and criminal offenses.

Prada’s Response to Allegations

In a formal response dated July 9, Prada clarified that the sandals in question were simply labeled as “leather sandals” and did not imply any regional origin or adherence to traditional Kolhapuri techniques. The company maintained that it had drawn inspiration from Indian footwear but had not used the Kolhapuri name or methods in its marketing. Prada’s representatives stated, “The sandals are broadly described as ‘leather sandals,’ and there has been no suggestion, direct or indirect, that they originate from the GI-designated region.”

Legal Experts Weigh In

Legal experts specializing in Indian GI legislation have weighed in on the matter, noting that design inspiration alone does not constitute infringement. Priyanka Khimani, founder of an intellectual property law firm, explained that borrowing a style without explicitly using the GI name in trade does not necessarily violate GI provisions. She stated, “Unless Prada markets or sells these sandals using the word ‘Kolhapuri’ or implies a link to Kolhapur’s craftsmanship, there is no legal recourse.” This perspective suggests that the legal framework surrounding GI rights may not fully cover cases of design inspiration without direct commercial use of the protected name.

Current Status of the Dispute

As the situation unfolds, LIDKAR authorities are currently reviewing Prada’s legal statement. The fashion show, where the sandals were featured, took place on June 22. Prada’s legal representatives have emphasized that the brand has avoided using the term ‘Kolhapuri’ in any product-related communications. The outcome of this dispute could have significant implications for the protection of traditional crafts and the rights of artisans in India, as well as for international fashion brands drawing inspiration from cultural heritage.

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