North Korea Reopens to Tourists After Pandemic Hiatus
After a five-year closure due to the pandemic, North Korea has reopened its borders to Western tourists, allowing a select group to explore the secretive nation. Guided by strict regulations, travelers are now experiencing a tightly controlled glimpse into the isolated country, which has remained largely cut off from the outside world since early 2020. The first tours resumed last week, attracting a mix of adventure seekers and curious travelers eager to visit one of the world’s most enigmatic destinations.
Strict Guidelines for Tourists
As tourists prepare to enter North Korea, they are briefed on a series of strict rules designed to maintain the regime’s control. Tour guides emphasize the importance of respecting local leaders and ideology, advising visitors against making any judgments about the country. Practical guidelines include a complete lack of phone signal, internet access, and cash machines, ensuring that tourists remain within the confines of the approved itinerary.
Rowan Beard, who operates Young Pioneer Tours, one of the two companies allowed to resume operations, highlights the importance of understanding the local culture. “The North Koreans aren’t robots. They have opinions, goals, and a sense of humor,” he explains. Despite the restrictions, Beard managed to gather a group of eager travelers within hours of receiving the green light to restart tours. The group, consisting mainly of vloggers and travel enthusiasts, crossed the border from China into the remote area of Rason for a four-night adventure.
Experiencing Life in Rason
Among the travelers was British YouTuber Mike O’Kennedy, who was taken aback by the level of control exercised during the tour. “It felt like being on a school trip,” he remarked, noting that tourists were closely monitored by local guides. The itinerary included visits to a beer factory, a school, and a newly stocked pharmacy, all carefully orchestrated to showcase the regime’s narrative.
During a visit to a local school, O’Kennedy witnessed a performance by eight-year-olds dancing to animations of ballistic missiles. “It was kind of bleak to see,” he reflected. Despite the tight restrictions, he managed to observe snippets of everyday life in North Korea, where he noted that everyone seemed to be working, with little time for leisure.
Tourism Amidst Ongoing Isolation
Currently, tourists are not permitted to visit the capital, Pyongyang, as authorities appear to be testing the waters in Rason, a special economic zone. This area operates as a mini-capitalist enclave, allowing some interaction with Chinese businesspeople. Greg Vaczi from Koryo Tours, the other company allowed to operate tours, expressed concerns about the limited itinerary, which lacks access to major monuments in Pyongyang.
Travelers have reported that the area appears dilapidated, with poor infrastructure and run-down buildings. Joe Smith, a seasoned visitor to North Korea, noted that the conditions were worse than he had anticipated. “If this is the best they can show, I dread to think what else is out there,” he remarked, highlighting the stark contrast between the regime’s polished images and the reality on the ground.
Controversy Surrounding North Korean Tourism
The return of tourism to North Korea has sparked debate, particularly as travelers are allowed back before aid workers and diplomats. Critics argue that these trips primarily benefit the regime, with little to no advantage for the average North Korean citizen. Joanna Hosaniak from the Citizens Alliance for North Korean Human Rights emphasized that the majority of the population remains unaware of the tourists’ existence, and the funds generated from tourism largely support the state’s military efforts.
Despite the risks, interactions between tourists and local guides provide a rare opportunity for cultural exchange. While some guides are surprisingly well-informed about global events, conversations must be navigated carefully due to strict laws prohibiting open dialogue. For many tourists, these encounters highlight the complexities of engaging with a society that remains largely closed off from the rest of the world.
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